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Big Country: Abilene and the Texas Forts Trail

By Layla Bellows

If you want to head deep into the heart of Texas, set your GPS to Abilene, a town that celebrates its Lone Star State heritage every day through arts, celebrations and a number of historical sites. It also happens to be the starting point for what could be considered the soul of the state: The Texas Forts Trail. This ring of eight forts in the West Central Texas region were established to protect the settlers whose bravery and can-do attitude began what’s now called the frontier spirit.

The first fort on the trail is Fort Phantom Hill (left)  just north of Abilene. Its stone structures served as an outpost for the federal army from 1851 to 1854. Although much of it burned shortly after the army abandoned it, it continued as a postal way station and stagecoach stop, then as a station for the Confederacy’s Frontier Battalion, and finally was reoccupied by troops involved in Indian campaigns. And it all happened in 50 years.

You’ll find similar stories all along the 650-mile Texas Forts Trail, and whether you see all eight forts or choose to dart in and out of specific sites, you’ll find small pieces of Texas history that together tell the story of its settling. On the southern side of the trail, for instance, stands Presidio San Luis de Las Amarillas (right) built by the Spanish in 1757. It was constructed to protect a nearby mission from Indian raids — a task that proved so hard the fort was abandoned after only 10 years, never to be used for defense again. To its east is Fort Mason, built in 1851 as part of a string of army forts from the Rio Grande to the Red River to open new land to settlement and protect the pioneers. This time the goal was attained.

Like a scenic byway, the trail is dotted with charming towns, noteworthy landmarks and beautiful parks. In the town of Cisco, for instance, you can see Conrad Hilton’s first hotel. On the northeastern edge of the trail, near Fort Richardson, is Lake Mineral Wells State Park. Located along the scenic Rock Creek, this is a spot to stretch your legs and test your endurance: Rock climbing, horseback riding and mountain biking are all top activities here.

A round trip, of course, ends in Abilene, where you can celebrate the pioneers with a visit to Frontier! Texas or keep a military theme with a trip to the 12th Armored Division Memorial Museum.

Fort Phantom Hill image courtesy Steve Butman Photography.

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